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Swellendam Hiking Trail

Marloth Nature Reserve, Western Cape

The Swellendam Hiking Trail is a 5 day/4-night trail promise to take your breath away (Note: The 6-day trail option is no longer available).  The trail is demanding and should only be attempted by fit hikers. The breathtaking mountainous area is covered with mountain fynbos and patches of Afromontane Forest.  Spring is the best time to witness the colourful display of mountain fynbos, which includes several Protea species and more than 25 Erica species in bloom.  Many of these species occur nowhere else in the world. Winters can be harsh, with snow on the peaks, but still offer a different kind of beauty.  Please note that hikes should be planned in advance, as hikers are not permitted to leave the trail due to it being surrounded by private property. Fires are only allowed in demarcated sites.

Things You Need to Know Before the Hike:

Group size:

The group must be a minimum of 3 and a maximum of 8 people. Even though some of the huts have more than 8 beds, they will not let you add more than 8 people to the group when you book (don’t bother asking, we tried…)

Opening Time:

Marloth Nature Reserve opens at 07:30.  You can park your cars in the reserve, just near the offices, where they will be safe until you return from your hike.

Briefing before the hike:

One of CN appointed staff will give you a briefing on what to expect during the hike, along with any weather warnings (although you should check the weather before you go to make sure you are properly prepared). Grab a map at the office as well, it helps for navigating each day.  Allow at least 45 minutes for the sign-in, toilet-break, car-parking and bag-repacking that will all happen before you actually start hiking.

Fires:

A fire can only be made on the last night of the hike, at Wolfkloof Hut.  Note: No fires are allowed at any of the other huts due to the high run-away fire risk, and inaccessibility of the huts.

Escape Routes:

Escape routes are only available at the end of days 2 (Goedekloof) and 4 (Wolfkloof). There are no other escape routes available on the hike. Protea Valley hut (at the end of Day 3) is the most remote of all the huts and the least accessible.

Cell Phone Reception:

There is patchy cell phone reception along the hike, and at all of the huts except Day 3 (Protea Valley Hut).

Ablution Facilities and Water:

There are eco-toilets (long-drops) at all the huts. There are only cold-water showers at the end of days 2, 4 and 5. Day 1 and Day 3 both have rivers nearby where you can collect water as well as clean yourself.  Be prepared for either a rather smelly 5 days or being willing to shower in freezing cold water.  All of the huts have access to fresh water – be it from the river, or from the JoJo tanks. It is not necessary to take water purification tablets with you.

Water along the trail:

There are some water points along the trail each day, but these depend very much on how much rain the area has had. We recommend filling your water bladder or bottles with at least 2L of water for each day, in case the streams are not at full flow.

Huts:

It is not necessary to take a hiking mattress with you on this hike (despite the information provided by Cape Nature and other platforms). All the huts have mattresses (including Boskloof, which consists of 2 metal structures with wooden floors). All of the huts have a different layout and setting.

Essential Equipment:

A rain jacket, a headlamp, shoes/boots with good grip and a hiking pole are absolute essentials on this hike. With the change in altitude and the change in weather, you can get very cold, so make sure you have something warm and wind-proof. The hiking pole will be a lifesaver on the long uphills and steep downhills (especially on Day 4). Don’t leave any of these at home. A headlamp is needed as there is no light at the huts (and if you leave early/arrive late when the sun isn’t around anymore). You need shoes with good grip as the terrain is uneven in a lot of places. Add a bit of rain or mud to this and you will be grateful for the extra grip.

Level of Fitness:

You need to be relatively hiking-fit for this 5-day mammoth. The up hills and downhills are steep, so make sure you (a) don’t have knee problems, or (b) if you do have knee problems, do some strength training beforehand, and make sure to bring along some Kinesio tape or a knee-guard.

Refuse:

You need to take any rubbish you accumulate on Day 1, with you on Day 2 – the same goes for days 3 and 4. There are only bins available at the huts on days 2 and 4. Please DO NOT litter on the trail. We sadly saw a few instances of littering, and it really is not necessary. If you pack well, you should not accumulate too much rubbish in a day, and even then, it should be light and easy to carry to the next hut.

Trail Markings:

The trail is marked with painted shoeprints; however, these are only prevalent on days 1 and 5. On the other days, there are cairns to lead the way in some places, but the path is relatively clear and easy to follow. The ceramic distance markers along the route are not always accurate and should only be used as a rough guideline.

Accommodation:

All huts are “leave no trace” units and must be left clean and tidy. All rubbish must be removed – what you take in, you need to take out with you. It is not feasible for staff to clean after each team leaves the huts. All huts are equipped with brooms, mops, and cleaning materials for groups to use before they depart for the next hut. Reservations are limited to a minimum of 3 and a maximum of 11 people. Please refer to the trail map for cross-sections of the trails. No hiking arrival to area. Arrive and sleep at Bushbuck or Suikerbekkie cottage or stay over in the town of Swellendam which has many different options from Backpackers, and self-catering to B&B establishments. Please visit the town’s info center or website for options:

Rates:

  • Min – 3 hikers
  • Max – 10 hikers
  • R1350.00 pp.

Admin Fee:

  • R55.00 once off per reservation

Accommodation Options

Accommodation in Marloth Nature Reserve

Marloth Nature Reserve has two self-catering cottages, namely Bushbuck (sleeps 6) and Suikerbekkie (sleeps 2). These can be booked for the night before you start your hike so that you are already in the reserve when the gates open.  If you do want to stay in these huts, you can book them at the same time as you book the hike. 

There are peak and off-peak rates, as well as conservation fees to be paid.  Rates per person differ for each of the cottages and are also dependent on how many people are booked into each cottage. (Note: Glenstroom hut is not available to book anymore, despite what you may read on other platforms).

Suikerbekkie Cottage

Suikerbekkie cottage accommodate a maximum of 2 people in one bedroom with a double bed. Bedding and towels are provided.  The cottage has a fully equipped kitchen with fridge, stove/oven, microwave, toaster and cutlery/crockery.  The bathroom is equipped with hot and cold water with shower and flush toilet. There is an inside fireplace and an outside braai area.   No firewood is allowed on the reserve, only eco-logs and charcoal which is also available to purchase on reserve.
Electricity: Yes
Bathroom: Hot-water shower
Kitchen: Fully equipped
Bedding, linen and towels: Yes
Fireplace and braai: Yes, no firewood is allowed on the reserve, only eco-logs or charcoal. Guests can also purchase eco-logs and charcoal on reserve.
Wood Fire Hot Tub: Yes
Disabled access: No
Pets welcome: No
*Wood is purchased on the reserve; external wood is not allowed – please bring charcoal and firelighters.

Rates:
Off Peak Fee:
  • R980.00 per night
Peak Fee:
  • R1 130.00 per night

Bushbuck Cottage

Bushbuck Cottage is a fully equipped self-catering cottage. It is perfect for a weekend getaway or as an overnight stop before starting the six-day Swellendam Trail. Bushbuck Cottage sleeps six people in three separate rooms. One bedroom has a double bed, while the other two rooms have two single beds.  No firewood is allowed on the reserve, only eco-logs and charcoal which is also available to purchase on reserve.
Electricity: Yes
Bathroom: Hot-water shower
Kitchen: Fully equipped
Bedding, linen and towels: Yes
Fireplace and braai: Yes, no firewood is allowed on the reserve, only eco-log or charcoal. Guests can purchase eco-logs and charcoal on reserve.
Disabled access: No
Pets welcome: No
Luxury amenities: Wood fired hot tub (making use of eco-logs, available at the office for R50 a bag).
Wood Fire Hot Tub: Yes
*Wood is purchased on the reserve, external wood is not allowed – please bring charcoal and firelighters

Rates:

Off Peak Fee:
  • R1250.00 per night
Additional p/p/n Off Peak Fee:
  • R290.00

Peak Fee:

  • R1 830.00 per night

The Trail

Day 1:

Marloth Nature Reserve Office to Boskloof Hut (± 15.7 Km, ± 7 Hours)

Day 1 is the hardest day. It is also one of the longest, at ±15.7km (±7 hours). You will need to leave as soon as you can from the Marloth Nature Reserve Office. The reserve opens at 07h30 – give yourself at least 45 mins to 1 hour to sign in, move cars and rearrange bags, as well as enjoy the briefing from the Duty Manager. You have a long day ahead of you, and you need to be on the trail by 08h30.  Your bag will be at its heaviest and the terrain on Day 1 is not to be laughed at. If there has been any rain in the preceding days before you begin your hike, be prepared for a slippery experience. This means you need to walk more slowly so that you don’t fall, which also means more time on the mountain. Pace yourself. Take enough water (2L minimum) and snacks for at least 7 hours on the mountain.

Day 1 is made up of either uphills, downhills or flat hills. But never no hills.  The majority of the first part of the day will be uphill. Zig-zagging across the slopes in order to get you up and over the other side to Boskloof Hut. There is a steep section of downhill in the last 4km of Day 1, with very rocky terrain.  The last descent is over once you reach the wooden bridge. At this point you are about 1km from the hut. There is a long uphill for the last 1km of the hike – it’s the last push to the hut, and you will be tired from the day’s walking.

Boskloof Shelters

The two Boskloof shelters are constructed of metal sheeting and have a raised wooden floor. The top shelter has insulated walls while the shelter lower down does not. We ended up sleeping in the lower shelter, which to our surprise, stayed relatively warm throughout a very cold night. There are two eco-toilets situated next to the shelters, but only one is open for use by hikers. There is a mountain stream that borders on the shelters and is accessible by the occupants of both shelters via a short path. Access to the stream from the top shelter is via a path above the shelter and via a path just below the lower shelter. Once we had greeted everyone and laid down our heavy packs, we took all our fillable containers (water bladders, kettle and bottles) and filled them up at the river by torch-light so that we didn’t have to brave the cold again, and we had enough water for supper and breakfast.  There are no rubbish bins at this shelter and no showers. No fires are permitted at these shelters due to the high risk it poses for veld fires.

Day 2:

Boskloof Hut To Goedgeloof Hut (± 11.0km; ± 6 HOURS)

The total distance for Day 2 is 11.0km, which should take about 6 hours to complete. If you leave by 08h30, you will have ample time to reach the hut by mid-afternoon.  It starts with a 1km uphill climb that zig-zags through the fynbos along the slopes opposite the Boskloof huts.  The path levels out after about 1.5km but then climbs again, taking you up and over the northern slopes of the mountain, to an altitude of 1158m. At this point, the path appears to split. Keep right (look for the large rock cairns), and follow the path and cairns downwards, after which, the path levels out again and is more clearly visible. Shortly thereafter, you will cover a series of flat, zig-zag and slightly sloped sections of the trail, and after walking about 7km, you should reach the highest altitude for the day (1315m).

You will then begin the final descent for the day, and the Goedgeloof Huts will soon become visible, along with some beautiful farms in the distance. Don’t be fooled by the huts’ seemingly close proximity. From this point, it is still nearly 4km to the huts, and the terrain is fairly slow-going as it is very rocky. The trail also traverses up and down the slope, so it often feels like you will never get there.  There are a few water spots along the trail on Day 2, but these are mainly along the second half of the day. Make sure you fill up at the large water points, as the undulating downhill to the hut seems endless and there may not be much water in that section during the dry seasons. The scenery on this side of the mountain is quite different from Day 1.

Goedgeloof Overnight Hut

This overnight hiking camp comprises of 2 stone huts that can accommodate 8 and 4 hikers respectively.  There are 2 cold showers with wooden half doors and two eco-toilets without any doors.   Outside the lapa/kitchen is a tap for filling up water and washing dishes. It was very handy during the rain, as the other taps and basins are a distance away and we would have been soaked otherwise. 

There are plenty of refuse bins around the camp so remember to get rid of your refuse or you will be forced to carry it with you until the end of Day 4. If you are lucky enough to reach this hut on a sunny day, and you need to wash any clothing, there is a large basin at each of the eco-toilets, along with a washing line just behind the lapa. We recommend bringing along a few pegs in case it is windy.

Day 3:

Goedgeloof Hut To Proteavallei Hut (± 9.5km; ± 4 hours)

Day 3 is an easier day of walking than Days 1 and 2, and, according to our hiking group, definitely the most beautiful. The first 3km are relatively easy-going, so you will manage to hike this section quite quickly. The path does meander uphill, but the incline is gradual, so it’s a great way to warm up your legs. You need the warmup for the monster hill that awaits.  There is a water point just after the 3km mark, so if you need to fill up, do it here.  It’s recommend also taking a short break here because directly after this point is a long (±1.5km) steep uphill section that seems to be never-ending. Luckily this is the main ascent of the day, so once you have conquered it, the path ahead is relatively easy.  Take a break at the top of the hill, out of the wind, on the rocky section just to the left of the path. There is about 5km of the trail still left to hike from this point to the hut, but it is through the most beautiful section of tall proteas everywhere you look (it’s not called Protea Valley for nothing).

You will be able to see the hut from a fair distance away. As you walk along the meandering trail towards the hut, be sure to turn around and have a look at Misty Point in the distance. It is the highest peak in the Langeberg range and often has beautiful cloud formations around the summit. We each took turns describing what we saw in the clouds. The vastness of the valley of proteas, with this towering peak in the background, is certainly something to behold.

The trail markers on Day 3 are fairly accurate, and the path is wide and open for most of the day, so it is definitely an easier day of walking. You can leave Goedgeloof by 08:30/09:00 and you should reach Proteavallei hut by 13:00, with still enough time to bathe in the river, wash clothes if needed, and eat.

Protea Valley Overnight Hut

This overnight hiking camp comprises of a traditional wooden hikers’ hut that is split into two sleeping sections; one with 6 double bunk beds and the other with 4 double bunk beds – once again, enough space for each person to have a bottom bunk to sleep on, and a top bunk for unpacking. The hut is also equipped with single benches and countertops for cooking purposes. The traditional deck in front of the hut was a welcome sight after a day out on the trail.  This is the last of the original hiking huts on the trail and it is beginning to show its age. The floorboards have gaps in them and some of the windows have slipped out of their frames. This makes it the coldest hut on the trail to sleep in.

There are two eco-toilets in the camp, marked Male and Female, as well as a tap and cement basin just in front of the hut. There is a stream that runs just above the hut and can be used for bathing purposes. There are no showers at this hut and no refuse bins. Again no fires are permitted here. There is also no viable cell phone reception at this hut and it is the most remote of all the huts if a medivac is required.

Day 4:

Proteavallei Hut To Wolfkloof Hut (± 7.5km; ± 4.5 hours)

Day 4 is another short day, but comprises mainly of one long downhill that can be tricky underfoot as sections of the trail are overgrown, and in wet conditions, the trail is very slippery. The scenery on this day is vast and majestic.  Although short in distance, the day still takes a good 4 to 5 hours to complete. If you leave by 09h00, you should be at the next hut by early afternoon.

Day 4 starts with a short (1.3km) uphill (this seems to be the norm for this trail), after which, the trail meanders down the mountain and then you will begin the descent along Kruispad for the remainder of the day. It has some very steep sections, but also some flatter sections, so enjoy a break along the route at these points if you need to.  In the last kilometre before reaching the hut, you will walk along the side of a pine forest before making your way down the steep path to Wolfkloof hut.  The path down to Wolfkloof Hut is a series of large, high steps. Wolfkloof hut is very close to civilisation, so you may be able to hear tractors ploughing or cars driving nearby. It is a sad reminder that the hike is nearing the end.

Wolfkloof Overnight Hut

This overnight hiking camp was by far the most impressive of all the overnight camps. Wolfkloof Hut has a similar layout to Protea Valley Hut – It has a traditional hiking hut which is split into two sleeping sections, with a balcony adjoining the two. The camp also boasts a large lapa with an undercover braai facility, two 6-seater picnic benches, and a basin with a tap for food preparation.  There are also two cold-water showers adjoining the lapa. There are two eco-toilets in the camp and plenty of refuse bins to go around. This overnight camp provides a fitting end to 4 tough days on the trail and is perfectly equipped to usher in the final day on the mountains.

A few things to take note of on Day 4:

  • You will only get cell phone reception after walking about 1km from Proteavallei Hut onto the next day’s route.
  • You are no longer able to opt for the route over Vensterbank, there is only 1 route on this day, and it will take you down Kruispad.
  • For safety sake, do not touch, pick or eat the mushrooms in the pine forest
  • There are day hikes in the area near Wolfkloof hut, so don’t bathe in the river in your birthday suit unless you want to be ogled by the locals (this happened to 2 of our group…)

Day 5:

Wolfkloof Hut To Marloth Nature Reserve Office (± 12km; ± 5 HOURS)

Day 5 starts with a river crossing. Depending on how much rain the area has had in the preceding days, you may need to take off your boots for this one. The river is very close to the hut, so you can evaluate it in the morning before you set off.  After the river crossing, the trail zig-zags uphill (how surprising!) for about 2.5km. The trail markers for Day 5 are relatively accurate so you can use them as a rough guide. There is a short section of contour path before more zig-zagging for a further 2km.

At the 4.5km mark, there is a lovely spot near a stream to stop for a snack break.  Shortly thereafter, the path descends steeply, and you will enter a forest area, and walk along a jeep track. It is quite shaded, and the walking is not particularly tough.

At the 7km mark, you should cross a causeway that leads into the Hermitage Forest. There is a shaded forest area with lots of rocks to sit on and have lunch. The river is wide and you can fill up your supplies here before tackling the last few kilometres of the day.  The trail zig-zags uphill yet again, before descending into a blue-gum forest. After 8.5km, you will reach another jeep track that has a few sneaky inclines. It’s the trail’s way of reminding you that the hike is not over until you are back at your car. This entire section of the hike is mostly well shaded and the smells in the forest after a long period of rain are something to experience.  There are a few smaller roads, paths, and day hike routes, but keep following the signs that read ‘Office’ and you will eventually be led back into the main admin area of the park where you can take your ‘After’ selfie at the Swellendam Hiking Trail Start sign.  There are showers at the end of the hike for those who don’t want to drive back home in a closed space without cleaning themselves first.

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